"I surf because I feel the need to be involved in the energy that I see all around me. Waves that break on our coastlines are generated by far off winds which in turn are generated by temperature differences produced by the radiation from our sun. This process of energetic transfer (albeit ultra-simplifed) allows us to becomes connected with a much greater and inspiring cosmos in the form of waves. I look at waves as keys to ultimate freedom, an escape from our conscious being and a connective tool to the divine. By reading those waves and being apart of those waves I feel a great sense of bliss and clarity in an otherwise confusing and difficult world. The ground below us is great for support but in the ocean the only support comes from within. Single focused concentration is critical to a successful wave and the extreme concentration that the ocean demands tends to bring about special abilities that we’ve never thought we were capable of. I love pushing myself, I love freedom, I love dedication and ancient traditions. I love that Surfing is never mastered but rather practiced for a lifetime. Surfing is the embodiment of unconditional freedom and that’s why I surf."