The Anatomy of a Wave

Ocean beach surf lessons

Surfing gives you the opportunity to experience one of mother natures most magnificent forces up close and test your athletic and mental prowess, all while having a blast and getting a taste of adrenaline. The breaks you see at the beach actually start their journey to you a long distance away. Factors that affect wave formation: Wind Speed, Distance of open water the wind has blown over, Length of time the wind has blown over an area These factors determine: Wave height, wavelength, interval time between waves The anatomy of a wave: Spray:the misty spray of water that occurs as the wave breaks Lip:Upper-most part of the breaking wave Peak: Highest point of the wave Crest: The unbroken part of the wave following the peak Shoulder: Least-steep part of a wave and farthest from the pit Face or Wall: The steep, unbroken section of a wave Barrel or Tube: Hollow part of a breaking wave, the gap between the face of the wave and the lip of the wave as it curls over Whitewater: The foamy part of a wave that has broken Trough: Lowest part between two successive waves

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